Csopaki hegybor – Jásdi Pincészet

Lake Balaton, the largest lake in Central Europe, is the closest that landlocked Hungary has to a sea. The lake moderates the climate of the surrounding countryside—making it not only a favorite destination for vacationers, but also a beneficial climate for viticulture.

Located on the northern shore of the lake, Balaton-Csopak is one of districts with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status within the greater Balaton wine region PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). The Balaton-Csopak district also includes the sub-region Tihany—an idyllic peninsula with an imposing abbey—which is Hungary’s smallest PDO.

Viticulture was most likely practiced in the region before the Romans arrived, and it then flourished within the Roman province of Pannonia. During the region’s heyday in the early 19th century, Balatonfüred was the most desirable holiday destination on the lake, and the wines were equally famous. Today the region comprises about 2,000 hectares of vineyards, which is significantly less than in the past since much prime vineyard land has been lost to holiday construction.

The region is almost exclusively white wine country today, and Olaszrizling is the king in Balatonfüred and Csopak. Both towns and their associated communities have their own organizations to promote the variety and raise its quality. The Csopak Codex is an independent origin and trademark protection system with the strictest requirements of any in Hungary regarding viticulture and vinification. It covers wines from 30 vineyards of five communities and has two levels—village and vineyard-selected wines.

Balatonfüred also has its own association, Rizling Generation, who are working towards a similar system. However, the Tihany peninsula effectively divides the region in two, and this is red wine country. Only red and rosé may be produced from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kékfrankos, and Merlot on the volcanic soils of the tiny 95-hectare PDO. Moreover, Kékfrankos is making inroads in the region and challenging white varieties’ dominance, with elegant wines being produced on its marl and limestone-rich soils.

Other important varieties in the region include Szürkebarát (aka Pinot Gris) and Chardonnay. Furmint, known locally as Szigeti, which used to be widely planted, is beginning to make a comeback.