Ég és Föld Között (Cabernet Franc) – Ipacs Szabó Birtok

The bird gracing the label is the European honey buzzard, which lives near Ipacs Szabó’s cellar—soaring high into the sky, and then touching down for food. “This symbolism has been imprinted in me ever since: an unending cycle between heaven and earth,” says Ipacs Szabó. “Like a winemaker who lives from the earth, works with the earth, and makes wine from the grapes, which uplifts our souls and spirits. ”This 100 percent Cabernet Franc is a Super Premium Villány Franc, the highest quality level origin-protected wine from Villány. The name translates as “Heaven and Earth,” and Ipacs Szabó prepared to make this wine for ten years before the time was right to do so. It represents the finest barrels from the best vintage, made from selected grapes, individually picked from the smallest clusters in the most productive parts of his vineyard. Only the best quality went into this wine. Harvest was on September 26. Fermentation started after a few days of cold maceration, and there were 20 days of skin contact. Aging was in a combination of new and used Hungarian oak barrels for 19 months. This is an all-around big wine, with high alcohol (14.5 percent), a rich velvety body, lots of ripe tannins, vibrant acidity … and all of it balanced by lovely fruitiness. There a…

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The Villány-Siklós region lies near the Croatian border and because it’s the warmest of Hungary’s wine regions, it’s often called the “Mediterranean of Hungary.” Known as one of Hungary’s prime red wine region, it specializes in Bordeaux varieties and some local varieties, such as Portugieser and Kékfrankos. There are 11 villages in the region, with the village of Villány itself being the focal point. It’s a quaint village, and its strong Swabian influence is evident in its neat main drag lined with traditional whitewashed wine cellars where the wine always flows. Villány steals the spotlight from Siklós, which is to the west, the part of the region specializing in whites such as Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, and Chardonnay.

Villány was one of the wine regions which re-started the earliest after Communism fell. In the mid-1990s a slew of modern wineries were built, vineyards were re-planted, and families which had been making wine for generations could once again share their wines with the world.

The region’s success was an essential part in the re-building of the Hungarian wine industry as a whole. Hungarian tourists flocked here to spend wine-fueled weekends at the charming winery-owned pensions, and soon the word spread internationally. For wine tourists, it’s a great place to visit, and many of the wineries run their own inns, hotels, and restaurants.

Villány’s signature grape is Portugieser (formerly called Kékoportó), and Kékfrankos is also widely planted. Kadarka—a native variety that was the most widely planted red grape in 19th-century Hungary, but wasn’t suitable to mass production during the Communist era —has also been re-planted in areas.

Much of Villány’s wine is made with internationally known grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. It has become clear over the past two decades of experimentation that Cabernet Franc is the super-star of the region. Tasting premier single varietal Cabernet Francs here (which winemakers have dubbed “Villányi Franc” to help with the branding) is pure pleasure. Cab Francs from Villány have received rave reviews from wine critics, and have won prestigious international awards.

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