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Tokaj Pezsgő — Erzsébet

It’s no secret that Erzsébet Winery has produced some stunning still wines made from Furmint over the years. Naturally, it was only a matter of time before they introduced Methode Traditionelle sparkling wine into their portfolio. In Tokaj each vineyard has such distinct characteristics, which winemakers harness in their single vineyard wines. Grapes for this wine one come from Erzsébet’s prized Zafír vineyard, which comprises a mix of loess and brown forest soil on a bedrock of volcanic dacite. This Premier-Cru level plot produces Erzsébet’s most delicate, elegant, and perfumed wines. Erzsébet Winery owns 1.4 hectares of the prime 5.6-hectare Zafír vineyard, and is one of its four owners (and one of the only two who bottle wine from it). The 2020 vintage brut sparkling wine is made from 100 percent of Tokaj’s best-known grape, Furmint. 2020 was a challenging vintage, with an unusually cold spring, hail and rain at flowering, and a lot of rain. Though quantity was low, quality was good, and ideal for sparkling wine. This wine was made in the traditional method (the same way Champagne is made), with the first disgorging after 13 months on the lees. This is a beautiful and immensely enjoyable sparkling wine, with the uniqueness of Tokaj, and its flagship grape, shinin… Read More

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In 1700 Tokaj developed one of the world’s earliest vineyard classification systems, and Tokaj is most famous for being the birthplace of Tokaji Aszú—one of the world’s oldest sweet wines.

Located in northeastern Hungary—which historically has been the crossroads of Central Europe—the region is framed by natural borders: the town of Tokaj in the southwest corner where the Bodrog and the Tisza rivers meet, the Bodrog river to the southeast, and the Zemplén hills to the northwest. The Tokaj region has 5,500 hectares of vineyards and 27 towns and villages. Wines from the different vineyards can all be quite different, and winemakers here love to experiment with single vineyard wines.

On top of its long and fascinating history, the Tokaj region has so much for wine-lover’s to discover. It is rich in a variety of volcanic soils; has a microclimate ideal for bringing on noble rot (botrytis); grows some really interesting indigenous grape varieties; and has a truly enchanting subterranean labyrinth of mould-covered cellars where the wines age. Though Tokaj is best known for its sweet Aszú wines, which are made from botrytized grapes, more than half of the wine it produces is dry.

Six official grape varieties grow in Tokaj. The superstars are the indigenous varieties Furmint and Hárslevelű, with Furmint being the high profile grape that tends to steal the show. Other varieties grown in smaller quantities are Sárga Muskotály, Kövérszölö, Zéta (a crossing of Furmint and Bouvier), and Kabar (a crossing of Hárslevelű and Bouvier). All of these wines are being increasingly made in dry styles, which winemakers are embracing because they are more marketable.

But it’s the sweet wines which make the region so unlike any other. They rely on the development of botrytis, which comes with the right weather conditions. The harvest here is a long, labor-intensive process which starts with the dry wine harvests, and continues with the harvesting of the botrytized grapes, which is done by hand.

In addition to Aszú (which is made with botryized grapes which are selectively harvested by hand, one berry at a time), other styles include late harvest wines, sweet and dry versions of Szamorodni (made with whole clusters of grapes containing a mixture of both botrytized and healthy grapes), Forditás (made from the second pressing after Aszú is made), Máslás (made from the second pressing after Aszú is made), and Eszencia (made from the free-run juice of Aszú berries, so thick and concentrated that it only reaches about four percent alcohol).

The Erzsébet Winery is one of Tokaj’s leading small wineries. It’s a true family-affair, run by siblings Hajnalka and Miklós Prácser and their parents. While Hajni sells the wine (and educates visitors on Tokaj), Miki is busy in the mould-covered cellar making the wine, and their parents (Miklós Sr. and Erzsébet) reign over the vineyards, which are located on some of the best grand cru vineyard sites in the region.

Both siblings are well-traveled, but decided to remain in their hometown to focus on making top-notch wine and build the family business. Erzsébet Pince is located in the center of Tokaj, in an 18th century building which once belonged to a Russian wine merchant. Erzsébet makes the full range of Tokaj wines, from sparkling wine and easy-drinking aperitif-style wines, to top-notch dry single vineyard Furmints and some of the best Aszú in the region.

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