Inni Jó – Ipacs Szabó Birtok

“Inni Jó” is a play on words that means “drinking (is) good,” since this is an easy (and good) drinking wine. The name sounds simple, but the story behind it is the result of a family effort. Ipacs Szabó likes to have his kids exposed to his winemaking and vineyard work, so they appreciate the value of it. After his younger son tasted a sip of this wine he commented: it feels good to drink. After thinking about it, the oldest son said: “drinking is good!” The name has stuck, and suits the wine. This is a Cabernet Franc (28 percent) and Kékfrankos (72 percent) blend, with grapes coming from different vineyards. The Kékfrankos was harvested on September 21st, while the Cabernet Franc was harvested on October 2nd. They were vinified separately, and both batches had a few days of cold maceration before fermentation. The Kékfrankos had 15 days of skin contact, while the Cabernet Franc had 19 days. Ipacs Szabó uses a classic basket press. After blending, the wine was aged for 14 months in oak barrels. Despite the playful name, this wine has a more serious personality. It is a spicy, juicy, and well-balanced wine. With the first sip you notice the fresh acidity, the fruitiness follows, and then the tannins arrive. It has a vibrant and fresh nose, and characters of blue…

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The Villány-Siklós region lies near the Croatian border and because it’s the warmest of Hungary’s wine regions, it’s often called the “Mediterranean of Hungary.” Known as one of Hungary’s prime red wine region, it specializes in Bordeaux varieties and some local varieties, such as Portugieser and Kékfrankos. There are 11 villages in the region, with the village of Villány itself being the focal point. It’s a quaint village, and its strong Swabian influence is evident in its neat main drag lined with traditional whitewashed wine cellars where the wine always flows. Villány steals the spotlight from Siklós, which is to the west, the part of the region specializing in whites such as Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, and Chardonnay.

Villány was one of the wine regions which re-started the earliest after Communism fell. In the mid-1990s a slew of modern wineries were built, vineyards were re-planted, and families which had been making wine for generations could once again share their wines with the world.

The region’s success was an essential part in the re-building of the Hungarian wine industry as a whole. Hungarian tourists flocked here to spend wine-fueled weekends at the charming winery-owned pensions, and soon the word spread internationally. For wine tourists, it’s a great place to visit, and many of the wineries run their own inns, hotels, and restaurants.

Villány’s signature grape is Portugieser (formerly called Kékoportó), and Kékfrankos is also widely planted. Kadarka—a native variety that was the most widely planted red grape in 19th-century Hungary, but wasn’t suitable to mass production during the Communist era —has also been re-planted in areas.

Much of Villány’s wine is made with internationally known grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. It has become clear over the past two decades of experimentation that Cabernet Franc is the super-star of the region. Tasting premier single varietal Cabernet Francs here (which winemakers have dubbed “Villányi Franc” to help with the branding) is pure pleasure. Cab Francs from Villány have received rave reviews from wine critics, and have won prestigious international awards.

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