“Nászút Helyett” (Cabernet Franc) – Ipacs Szabó Birtok

It was either buying a vineyard or going on a honeymoon.  But “It was love at first sight,” said Ipacs Szabó (of the vineyard). The name of this wine translates as “Instead of a Honeymoon,” since Ipacs Szabó and his wife decided to purchase two hectares of vineyards instead of going on a honeymoon. This wine is the result of their decision, and represents their perseverance and dedication to winemaking. In the Villány region it is an unspoken rule that Cabernet Franc must be the focal point of any winemaker’s portfolio. Thus, this 100 percent Cabernet Franc was born. This is a Villány Franc, meaning that it is an origin-protected wine. Only the best wines in the region—those which embody the region’s elegance and harmony—are eligible for this classification. Grapes for this wine were harvested on September 24. After a cold maceration, they were fermented, had 19 days of skin contact, and were pressed (with an old-fashioned basket press). This wine only contains the free-run juice from pressing, so the finest part of the juice. The wine was barrel-aged for 19 months in a combination of new and used Hungarian and French oak barrels. This is a complex wine, with a concentrated and spicy nose. On the palate, there’s lots of intense fruitiness (blueberry, blackb…

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The Villány-Siklós region lies near the Croatian border and because it’s the warmest of Hungary’s wine regions, it’s often called the “Mediterranean of Hungary.” Known as one of Hungary’s prime red wine region, it specializes in Bordeaux varieties and some local varieties, such as Portugieser and Kékfrankos. There are 11 villages in the region, with the village of Villány itself being the focal point. It’s a quaint village, and its strong Swabian influence is evident in its neat main drag lined with traditional whitewashed wine cellars where the wine always flows. Villány steals the spotlight from Siklós, which is to the west, the part of the region specializing in whites such as Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, and Chardonnay.

Villány was one of the wine regions which re-started the earliest after Communism fell. In the mid-1990s a slew of modern wineries were built, vineyards were re-planted, and families which had been making wine for generations could once again share their wines with the world.

The region’s success was an essential part in the re-building of the Hungarian wine industry as a whole. Hungarian tourists flocked here to spend wine-fueled weekends at the charming winery-owned pensions, and soon the word spread internationally. For wine tourists, it’s a great place to visit, and many of the wineries run their own inns, hotels, and restaurants.

Villány’s signature grape is Portugieser (formerly called Kékoportó), and Kékfrankos is also widely planted. Kadarka—a native variety that was the most widely planted red grape in 19th-century Hungary, but wasn’t suitable to mass production during the Communist era —has also been re-planted in areas.

Much of Villány’s wine is made with internationally known grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. It has become clear over the past two decades of experimentation that Cabernet Franc is the super-star of the region. Tasting premier single varietal Cabernet Francs here (which winemakers have dubbed “Villányi Franc” to help with the branding) is pure pleasure. Cab Francs from Villány have received rave reviews from wine critics, and have won prestigious international awards.

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1 review for “Nászút Helyett” (Cabernet Franc) – Ipacs Szabó Birtok

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