Erzsébet Winery
Tokaj Region
The Erzsébet Winery is one of Tokaj’s leading small wineries. It’s a true family-affair, run by siblings Hajnalka and Miklós Prácser and their parents. While Hajni sells the wine (and educates visitors on Tokaj), Miki is busy in the mould-covered cellar making the wine, and their parents (Miklós Sr. and Erzsébet) reign over the vineyards, which are located on some of the best grand cru vineyard sites in the region. Both siblings are well-traveled, but decided to remain in their hometown to focus on making top-notch wine and build the family business. Erzsébet Pince is located in the center of Tokaj, in an 18th century building which once belonged to a Russian wine merchant. Erzsébet makes the full range of Tokaj wines, from sparkling wine and easy-drinking aperitif-style wines, to top-notch dry single vineyard Furmints and some of the best Aszú in the region.
Sweet Szamorodni, 2017
Szamorodni is one of the classic sweet wine styles of Tokaj, famous for its botrytized sweet wines. Botrytis is a special mould (also known as “noble rot”), essential to produce these sweet wines. In Tokaj there are several harvests for the different styles of wine. For Szamorodni, whole grape bunches, with a mixture of healthy and botrytized berries, are harvested—hence its name, which means “as it comes” in the old Polish language. Historically, the wine was also called főbor (main wine), until a Polish wine merchant popularized the name Szamorodni. Poland was (and still is) one of the most important markets for Tokaj’s sweet wines. This sweet Szamorodni is 100 percent Furmint, from the historic grand cru Király dűlő (vineyard), located in the town of Mád. The vineyard is one of the region’s best and highest altitude sites, with red clay soil and volcanic rhyolite that enhances the wine’s acidity and gives a crushed-stone-like minerality. The Tokaj region has had several vineyard classifications during its 500+ year history, and in every one this vineyard is rated as first class (grand cru). It’s named “Király'' because it used to be owned by the king. Szamorodni wines are required to have a minimum residual sugar level of 45 grams per liter. With 149 grams, this extraordinary wine has more than three times the concentration of a basic Szamorodni. It is balanced by 7.8 grams of acidity. This wine was fermented in new Hungarian oak barrels, and was aged for 12 months in previously-used 225-liter Hungarian oak barrels. It then rested for one year in the bottle before being released. This is a very full-bodied wine, with intense aromas of apricot, acacia honey, and dried mangoes. It has a rich and balanced palate, with juicy acidity and round sweetness. Try it with any kind of spicy Asian food, or next to pungent cheeses.
Lunée, 2019
There are few places in the world where Muscat Blanc (also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat Lunel, Yellow Muscat, or Sárgamuskotály, as it is known in Hungary) makes such exciting wine. Harvested relatively early, at the end of August, from three different vineyards of varying soils: the Szarvas and Zafír in Tarcal and Sajgó in Bodrogkeresztúr, with loess bringing tropical fruit and grapey character. Volcanic soil adds acidity and structure—so often lacking in wines made from this grape. It was fermented and aged in the tank (for a short time) to emphasize the primary fruitiness and floral character of the grape. It oozes fresh grape aromas, along with passionfruit, grapefruit zest, elderflower and mango. The zesty palate has lively acidity for this grape. It’s a refreshing, medium bodied off-dry wine, with the residual sugar (11 grams per liter) balanced by the relatively high acidity, resulting in a smooth yet dry finish. This wine is reminiscent of both Germany’s Mosel off-dry wines and the expressive Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand. It’s ideal as an aperitif or with salads. It goes especially well with coriander and other fresh herbs, which bring out the wine’s floral character. Mexican food and lightly spicy food are perfect match! Serve well chilled.
Zafír dűlő (Furmint/ Hárslevelű), 2019
This is a complex blend of Tokaj’s two leading and indigenous grapes—Furmint (90 percent) and Hárslevelű (10 percent) from 20-year-old vines from a single vineyard (Zafír). Zafír comprises a mix of loess and brown forest soil on bedrock of volcanic dacite, and is located in the commune of Tarcal. The two grapes were vinified separately, with stems intact, and gently crushed. A slow pressing with some skin contact followed. Both fledgling wines were fermented and aged in Hungarian oak from the nearby Zemplén hills, with a small percentage of new oak, but mostly second- or third-filled barrels. There was some lees stirring (battonage). The still separate wines were then aged in barrels for four to six months, and blended in the spring. There is a hint of struck match, fresh and candied pineapple, and floral notes (acacia flower and orange blossom) on the nose. This full-bodied wine has a juicy fruitiness (melon, pear, lime, and grapefruit), and a creamy palate with complex yeastiness and a briny minerality on the finish. It’s a great food wine, and pairs well with a myriad of dishes—from heavily spiced Asian foods or classic fish dishes, to cheese and charcuterie. Erzsébet Winery owns 1.4 hectares of the prime 5.6-hectare Zafír vineyard, and is one of its four owners, and one of the only two who bottle wine from the special vineyard.
Betsek Barrel Selection (Kabar & Furmint), 2019
You won’t taste this wine anywhere else! Only one barrel (280 bottles) was produced, and when we tasted it, we immediately decided to import the whole barrel to share with our US club members. We are great fans of Erzsébet Winery—one of Tokaj’s leading boutique wineries—and have been following them, and working with them for years. The family winery is run by siblings Hajnalka and Miklós Prácser, and their parents (who founded the winery). While Hajni sells the wine (and educates visitors on Tokaj), Miki is busy in the mould-covered cellar making the wine, and their parents (Miklós Sr. and Erzsébet) reign over the vineyards, which are located on some of the region’s best grand cru vineyard sites. Tokaj’s Betsek vineyard—where this wine comes from—is classified as a grand cru site. This lovely wine—a mix of Kabar (80 percent) and Furmint (20 percent)—has a distinctive rich and full body, thanks in part to the Betsek vineyard. Kabar is a Hungarian-made crossing of the Hárslevelű and Bouvier varieties. It was created in the 1970s, and is one of the region’s six permitted grape varieties. It’s rare to find a wine produced using such a high proportion of this grape, since there are only a few hectares of it planted. This wine was aged in a second-use 226 liter Hungarian oak barrel for six months. This is a premium, age-worthy, rich style of Kabar, which will show its best after five or six years of bottle aging—if you can resist the temptation of drinking it now! Tokaj’s trademark high-acidity levels are balanced by this wine’s power and the texture. If you decide to enjoy this wine young, decanting is advised. Opening this bottle will transform any occasion into a special one. It pairs well with baked potato dishes, and creamy cheeses.
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Estate Furmint, 2015
Erzsébet Pince has a spectacular location in the center of Tokaj, with a cellar dating to the 1600s (it once belonged to a Russian czar). Erzsébet (named after the family matriarch) is a true family-affair. The winery bottled its first vintage in 1993, and is now run by the second generation, siblings Hajni and Miki Prácser. These grapes come from four different vineyards: Király, Betsek, Zafír, and Pécsi. The Grand Crus of Betsek and Király bring an intense minerality, thanks to their rocky-volcanic soils. Zafír brings elegance and balance, and the old-bush vines of Pécsi (planted in the 1920s) bring complexity and age-worthiness. The wines are aged separately in 225-liter used Hungarian oak barrels for six months before being blended together. On the nose, the wine is fresh, still very young, crisp, and elegant. There are scents of white peaches, pears, juicy apples, and lots of white flowers. This is, truly, a floral wine … with acacia, orange blossom, linden, you name it! It is soft and well-integrated.
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