Heumann Winery
Villány Region
Erhard and Evelyne Heumann are a German/Swiss couple who were led by fate to switch careers and settle in Villány to make wine. After Evelyne’s father travelled to Villány and ended up buying some vineyards, the Heumanns started making wine there in 1993, bottled their first professional wine in 2003, and have steadily been building on their wine business since then. What started as a hobby is now a full-time job, with both of them devoted to the success and quality of the winery. Villány, located in the southernmost part of Hungary, is one of Hungary’s most prized red-wine-producing regions. It’s a region filled with whitewashed wine cellar rows, and beautiful vineyards. Their wines are opulent, concentrated, and dreamy, and are consistently among Hungary’s most highly rated reds.
Rosé, 2019
Kékfrankos, Hungary’s most planted grape, with its vibrant acid structure and pure red fruit, is capable of making first-class rosé, as this fine example shows. It comes from the loess soils of Nagyharsanyi’s Dobogó and Siklós’ Varoshegy vineyards, with the latter containing an especially high proportion of limestone, which helps bring the mouth-watering acidity and zesty freshness. The grapes were de-stemmed and underwent fermentation in temperature-controlled steel tanks at 17°C, and then matured in stainless steel for four months. This 100 percent Kékfrankos rosé has a deep onion skin meets pale salmon color. It is subtly elegant and refined, with red grapefruit, watermelon, sour cherry, redcurrants, citrus, and peach on the pure nose and balanced palate. The palate is bright, with very vibrant acidity and a dry, crispy, and long finish (for a rosé) with a refreshing sour touch. It’s quite reminiscent of Provençal rosé, but with Kékfrankos’ crunchy fruit in abundance. It’s great as an aperitif with tapas, chicken and fish dishes, or simply by itself. It was selected as one of the Wines of the Week on www.jancisrobinson.com in August 2019.
Villányi Franc (Cabernet Franc), 2016
The legendary wine critic and auctioneer Michael Broadbent MW (Master of Wine) declared in the UK’s leading wine magazine, Decanter, on visiting Hungary’s southernmost Wine region in 2000 that Cabernet Franc had “found its natural home there.” The grape has become the region’s flagship grape, and the region has successfully created the ‘Villányi Franc’ brand. This wine is named after one of the vineyards from which the grapes come—the Trinitás vineyard in the village of Vokány—though it also comprises grapes from Diosviszlo’s Nagyhegy and Siklós’ Akásztófa vineyards. All of the vineyards have loess in common, with the latter containing an especially high proportion of limestone. The limestone adds extra structure-building acidity that delivers both freshness (often missing in Villányi Franc) and longevity to this low-yield wine. It was fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, and then aged in 225-liter Hungarian barrels for 24 months. It has a deep ruby-purple color, and is very concentrated with blueberry, blackcurrant, and blackberry aromas with a hint of smokiness. There are ripe, full, yet round tannins on the spicy palate, with similar notes to the nose with some tobacco and peppermint. It’s in great shape now, though it will continue to pick up complexity with age. Ideal with red meat dishes and stews, it was awarded 92 points by Andreas Larsson, winner of Best Sommelier of the World, on www.blindtasted.com.
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Kékfrankos, 2015
Kékfrankos is Hungary’s most planted grape and is the same grape as Austria’s Blaufränkisch. In the warm southern Hungarian region of Villány, it makes wines that are ripe, round, well-structured and deliciously fruity. This 100 percent Kékfrankos comes from a low yield of 1.2 kilograms per vine from Diósvizló’s Cser hegy (vineyard) and Siklós’ Varoshegy vineyards, with the latter containing an especially high proportion of limestone, which helps bring the structure-building acidity that delivers both length and longevity to the wine. The grapes were de-stemmed and the must was fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks at 26-27°C, then the wine was aged partly in tank and in used 500-liter Hungarian barrels for 18 months. It has a dark purple color, with an appealing mix of red (especially raspberries) and black fruit (blueberries) on the nose and palate, with eucalyptus, herbal, and smoky notes. It is a medium-bodied wine with fine-grained tannins, a long palate, juicy sour cherry notes, and a pleasant herbal twist on the bone-dry finish. It has vibrant acidity that will help the wine age very nicely when it will pick up complex tertiary notes of tobacco and earthiness, although it’s already drinking very well!
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Kékfrankos Reserve, 2015
This is the fuller face of Kékfrankos, which is Hungary’s most planted grape and the same grape as Austria’s Blaufränkisch. In the warm southern Hungarian region of Villány, it can make wines that are ripe, round, well-structured, and deliciously fruity—like this gem. This concentrated and classy Kékfrankos comes from an extremely low yield of 1 kilogram per vine from loess soils from Siklós’ Varoshegy and Diósvizló’s Cser hegy vineyards, with the former vineyard containing a high proportion of limestone. Limestone vineyards bring the wine lively acidity and freshness, which is often lacking in wines from Hungary’s southernmost region. It is fermented in temperature-controlled steel tanks at 26-27°C, then aged in 500-liter Hungarian barrels for 22 months. The oak is expertly integrated and adds texture and spice without impeding the fruit. It has a deep purple color with a violet rim, complex savory and fruity aromas and flavors of coffee, dark chocolate, ripe raspberry, sour cherry, strawberry, and red pepper. It is a full-bodied wine with fine-grained tannins, and the zesty acidity brings this blockbusting Kékfrankos a cool, refreshing streak that helps it slip down a treat. Great with red meat dishes, stews and all manner of spicy food.
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