2HA, Tabunello (Sangiovese), 2019

2HA Winery, Badacsony Region

This is a surprising wine to come from Hungary, and especially coming from Badacsony’s volcanic St. George Hill. This wine is 100 percent Sangiovese. The old Italian variety, grown by the Romans, famously known as Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino, and as being the backbone of blends such as Chianti, Carmignano, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. What is Sangiovese doing in Badacsony (land of the Olaszrizling)? Csaba Török, owner and winemaker of the 2HA Winery, is inspired by Italian wines, and wanted to have some of his own Sangiovese. The name Tabunello is a joke inspired by Csaba’s love of Italian wine—“tabu” refers to the taboo of planting such a grape as Sangiovese in this area. And, Csaba just thought calling it Tabunello would make it sound more Italian! Looking back at history, Hungary was a province of the Roman Empire (called Pannonia), so perhaps this wine is some way of coming full circle? There are only 2.5 hectares (six acres) of Sangiovese planted in the whole country (and 2HA has one-fifth of that). And this is the only Sangiovese wine on the market in Hungary. The Sangiovese Grosso variety is late-ripening, and requires much care in the vineyard. This beautiful organic wine is highly enjoyable. Pale ruby-colored in the glass, it’s full of fruit— sour cherry, rosehips, cranberry, and blackberry. There’s also rose petals, chocolate, earthiness, a touch of tobacco, and a bit of smokiness. It’s an easy drinking wine, with fresh and lively acidity, soft tannins, and a good depth. It also has potential to age for several more years in the bottle. This is a food-friendly wine, which is a perfect match for grilled meats and burgers, or pasta and pizza. If you are cooking Hungarian style, it works well with lecsó or lángos.  

Read About The Badacsony Region