Franom (Cabernet Franc) – Havas & Timár

This is 100 percent Cabernet Franc from 30-year-old vines from Eger’s Rádé vineyard. The Bordeaux variety of Cabernet Franc has found itself very much at home in Hungary. While the southern region of Villány has been building the Villányi Franc brand, Cabernet Franc also thrives in the cooler climate and volcanic soils of Eger, which provide the impressive structure-building acidic backbone. Winemaker Balázs Havas and his co-owner László Timár are childhood friends who created this winery after studying winemaking and working in hospitality. They only have 1.5 hectares of their own vineyards. But they buy grapes from other local growers, and are actively involved in the vineyard work and harvesting. Their philosophy is to make wine from only the best, fully-ripened grapes. Their goal is for all of the grape’s own aromas and flavors to be fully present. Havas decided against filtering the wine to keep the fine flavors at their fullest. He has managed to capture Cabernet Franc’s highly sought herbaceous, leafy note by picking it earlier rather than later, on the cusp of full ripeness, well before the grapes became overripe. He also does several harvests to get only the most perfect grapes. This wine has juicy fruitiness and spiciness in abundance, with pronounced arom…

$29.90

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One of Hungary’s red wine bastions, Eger, the home of Bikavér (aka Bull’s Blood), also boasts a diverse geological make-up which includes rhyolite tuff. It is also Hungary’s northernmost red-wine-producing region. Historic vineyards planted on these volcanic rocks make some of the biggest, fieriest wines in the region. As in Tokaj, this tuff lends itself perfectly to the carving of cellars. It hosts 99 percent of Eger’s cellars, including networks of passages dozens of miles long and the famous cellars under the city’s fortified castle.

Although historically a white wine land like its volcanic counterparts, red varieties displaced the whites and finally after the blight of phylloxera, Eger’s flagship red blend, Egri Bikavér, attained a worldwide reputation at the start of the 20th century. Winemakers here take this traditional blend seriously.
It has improved tremendously and has little in common with those past Bikavér’s which were exported to the West during the Communist-era of mass-produced wine. Varietals that find their way into Bikavér are Kékfrankos (Blaufrankish), Pinot Noir, Portugieser, Merlot, and Kadarka, and all of these are also bottled as single varietal wines.

At the start of the 21st century, Bikavér gained a white partner, Egri Csillag (‘Star of Eger’). Approximately 50 percent of the region’s vineyards are planted with white grapes and as no one variety dominates, so it was logical to make Egri Csillag a blend, in keeping with the region’s traditions. It is a very variable blend based on Carpathian-basin varieties, such as Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, Leányka, Királyleányka, Zengő, Zenit and some Hungarian crossings. A minimum of four of these varieties must be included and make up at least 50 percent of the blend and each must represent a minimum of 5 percent. The blend may also include up to 30 percent of fragrant Muscat varieties, such as Cserszegi Füszeres, Zefír, Irsai Oliver, Tramini and Muscat Ottonel. With their blend of history, volcanic minerality, and native varietals, there’s a lot to explore in Eger’s cellars.

Havas & Timár Winery is a small winery in Eger, founded by two long-time friends—Balázs Havas and László Tímár—in 2011. Balázs, a Budapest native, is the winemaker and oversees the vineyards. The pair started out with no vineyards of their own. But today they own one hectare (2.5 acres) of land in Eger and they buy the rest of their grapes from local growers, with the quality strict controlled by Balázs. Before switching to winemaking (and studying it at Corvinus University in Budapest) Balázs had a career in hospitality, with nature being a particular passion of his. He loves that winemaking allows him to follow both his passion for nature and for wine.

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