Signature Chardonnay – Malatinszky 

Chardonnay is grown on nearly 2,400 hectares in Hungary. It’s a great grape for reflecting the characteristics of its terroir, and the hopes and style of its winemaker. Csaba Malatinszky is a fan of this variety, and makes it in an old world style. Malatinszky started his career in wine as a sommelier, working in top Budapest’s restaurants in the 1990s, and then decided he wanted to make the switch from selling wine to making wine in 1997 when he opened his own winery.

He has been fully organic since 1999 (certified since 2009). This is a full wine, with a rich and balanced body and acidity structure (alcohol is 12.5 percent). Like most Villány whites, grapes come from the Siklós area, from 10-year-old vines in the Zuhánya vineyard. On the nose there is yeastiness, some savoury mushroom notes, and a hint of gunpowder. This wine benefits from being opened in advance, and we find that it opens up beautifully after getting a bit of air in the glass—with pineapple, pear, citrus, and peach flavors emerging. This wine is great on its own, and is also a versatile match for many foods. Try it with a Hungarian dish like stuffed cabbage or pasta with cabbage. Or, with roasted pork or chicken with a creamy sauce. This is an organic and vegan wine.

$23.90

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The Villány-Siklós region lies near the Croatian border and because it’s the warmest of Hungary’s wine regions, it’s often called the “Mediterranean of Hungary.” Known as one of Hungary’s prime red wine region, it specializes in Bordeaux varieties and some local varieties, such as Portugieser and Kékfrankos. There are 11 villages in the region, with the village of Villány itself being the focal point. It’s a quaint village, and its strong Swabian influence is evident in its neat main drag lined with traditional whitewashed wine cellars where the wine always flows. Villány steals the spotlight from Siklós, which is to the west, the part of the region specializing in whites such as Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, and Chardonnay.

Villány was one of the wine regions which re-started the earliest after Communism fell. In the mid-1990s a slew of modern wineries were built, vineyards were re-planted, and families which had been making wine for generations could once again share their wines with the world.

The region’s success was an essential part in the re-building of the Hungarian wine industry as a whole. Hungarian tourists flocked here to spend wine-fueled weekends at the charming winery-owned pensions, and soon the word spread internationally. For wine tourists, it’s a great place to visit, and many of the wineries run their own inns, hotels, and restaurants.

Villány’s signature grape is Portugieser (formerly called Kékoportó), and Kékfrankos is also widely planted. Kadarka—a native variety that was the most widely planted red grape in 19th-century Hungary, but wasn’t suitable to mass production during the Communist era —has also been re-planted in areas.

Much of Villány’s wine is made with internationally known grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. It has become clear over the past two decades of experimentation that Cabernet Franc is the super-star of the region. Tasting premier single varietal Cabernet Francs here (which winemakers have dubbed “Villányi Franc” to help with the branding) is pure pleasure. Cab Francs from Villány have received rave reviews from wine critics, and have won prestigious international awards.

Csaba Malatinszky started his career in wine as a sommelier, working in several of Budapest’s top restaurants in the 1990s. He founded his winery in 1997 and has been fully organic since 1999 (certified organic in 2009). Malatinszky’s portfolio of older vintages is one of the things that makes his cellar notable. “From the beginning I had the idea that I would sell older wines, not just sell everything as soon as it was made.” He grows Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Rhine Riesling, Muscat Ottonel, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, and produces 60 to 80,000 bottles per year. His winery is an environmentally conscious building, and was carefully planned for his focus on aging in small barrels. His wines are spontaneously fermented with native yeasts, and they are acclaimed for their complexity and elegance.

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