Syrah Premium – Steigler

Viticulture has been practiced in Sopron since Roman times, but lots of credit goes to the German settlers who began arriving in the 13th century. Known as poncichter (from the German Bohnenzüchter, which refers to growers who planted beans between the rows of vines), they helped make Sopron wine one of Hungary’s most sought-after exports by the 15th century. By the 17th century, Sopron had laws banning the sale of wine from elsewhere, making the tavern business the privilege of local growers. Soproni wine was widely exported across Europe. After World War Two, the ethnic Germans, who had tended most of the vines, were deported, and the many Jewish wine merchants were all lost in the Holocaust. The state cooperatives that followed favored quantity over quality, and Sopron’s wines were mediocre for decades (as in the rest of the country). Sopron was slower than other regions to rebuild after the government changes in the early 1990s, but things have been speeding up—thanks to wineries such as Steigler. There are only 311 hectares of producing Syrah vineyards in Hungary, so this popular international variety is a relative rarity. But this is a lovely example. It is a full-bodied and concentrated wine, with some meatiness to it. On the nose, there are scents of eucalyptus, mi…

$29.90

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Sopron is somewhat of an outlier compared to other Hungarian wine regions. Lying just across the border from Austria, it shares its viticultural traditions with the Burgenland, the region of which it was once the capital, Ödenburg. Like the Burgenland, its main red grape variety is Kékfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch), which makes up around two-thirds of its vineyard area. Indeed, the city identifies itself so much with the variety, that it has proclaimed itself the Capital of Kékfrankos. The city itself also has an Austrian feel and is home to a kind of wine tavern called Buschenschank not found anywhere else in Hungary. These date back to the 17th century when licenses were given to citizens to serve their own wine in their homes – often in the courtyard but also in the interior in winter. Its vineyards continue towards Rust and many winemakers of Austrian or even Croatian descent.
Sopron lies in the northwest of Hungary, directly on the border with Austria. Its 1,579 hectares of vines are planted on the slopes of the Sopron and Kőszeg Hills and around Lake Fertő, as Neusiedlsee is known in Hungary, at altitudes of 150-400m above sea level.

It is basically a direct continuation of the vineyards around Rust and the Leitha Hills in Austria. Nowadays, Sopron is predominantly a red-wine producing region, where Kékfrankos rules the roost. There are also small amounts of Zweigelt and Cabernet Sauvignon, but these run a distant second and third. Despite its relatively recent fame in the region, Kékfrankos is widely considered native to Sopron; however, it is more likely of Austrian origin. Its Austrian twin is also garnering much of the praise today too, as Hungarian versions are often more austere, lean and less immediately appealing. Sopron’s cool climate and partly calcareous soils typically yield wines dominated by red berry fruit and fresh spiciness with high, dynamic acidity but elegant, restrained tannins as well as somewhat lower levels of alcohol.
The most commonly grown white variety is Zöld Veltelini (aka Grüner Veltliner), which had dominated the entire region at the beginning of the 20th century.

Founded in 2015 by Bálint Lőrinczy, Steigler is an exciting addition to the winemaking scene in the Sopron region. Just across the border from Austria, near Lake Fertő, inemaking here dates back to the Celts.

The region has a noticeably German-character, with its wines sharing some similarities to the wines of Burgenland. Winemaker Tamás Varga has 21 hectares (52 acres) of organically farmed vineyards to work with. Steigler’s vineyards are located on some of Sopron’s best slopes, including the Steiger, Frettner, and Spern Steiner. One of the important characteristics of the soil in this region is the mica slate on the surface, which is found nowhere else in Hungary. As in Burgenland, Kékfranos (Blaufränkisch) is the most important grape in Sopron. In addition to Kékfrankos, Steigler also grows Cabernet franc, Furmint, Merlot, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot noir, Syrah, Zöldveltelini (Grüner Veltliner), and Zweigelt. They are especially proud of their Furmint plantations. Furmint was a major grape in the region until the early 20th century. All of Steigler’s wines are organic.

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1 review for Syrah Premium – Steigler

  1. Anonymous (verified owner)

    Very good. Went well with my lamb chops

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