Béres, Tokaji Eszencia, 2008 (250 ml)

Béres Winery, Tokaj Region

What is Eszencia?

Tokaji Eszencia is a wine so rich and concentrated that it’s more likely to be served in a special crystal spoon than in a glass. It’s produced from the free-run juice of the Aszú berries used to produce Tokaj’s most famous product, Tokaji Aszú. The botrytised Aszú grapes, which have been hand selected in the vineyards over numerous harvests, are piled into vats. As the number of berries in the vats grows over the weeks, their increasing weight presses down on the berries at the bottom, squeezing out their sugary juice. This free-run juice is collected either via a hole at the bottom of the vat or though a tap. This essence of grape—hence its name—contains an incredible amount of sugar, sometimes as much as a whopping 800 grams per liter. This juice is then fermented for years. The sugary environment means it takes a while for the yeasts to get to work, very slowly, and they are rarely able to produce more than five to six percent of alcohol before they die, more usually three or four. This is one of the world’s most expensive wines, only produced in the best vintages. “At least one hundred times more grapes are needed for Eszencia than for a bottle of table wine,” wrote British wine writer Hugh Johnson.

About the Winery

Béres is a well-known family name in Hungary. Before getting into the wine business, Dr. Béres developed the “Béres drops” (Béres csepp), a popular multivitamin that has also made it to the “Hungaricum” list, a list which names the most important Hungary products. The Béres family founded their winery in 2003. They have 45 hectares of vineyards, and an average annual production of 100,000 bottles. Their winery and many of their vineyards (and a plum orchard, from which they make pálinka) are located in the picturesque village of Erdőbénye. 

About the Wine

There are so many notable things about this Eszencia. Firstly, its caramel-colored appearance. It looks almost like maple syrup. Its thick, syrupy consistency is unlike any wine you’ve probably ever tasted. This Eszencia is made from 100 percent Furmint, harvested in October and November from the volcanic soil in the Lőcse, Omlas, and Diókút vineyards. It was fermented in oak and aged in tanks and oak barrels for six years before bottling. There is an astounding 550 grams per liter of residual sugar, and 18.5 grams per liter of acidity. The alcohol content is just 2.5 percent. On the first sip, the acidity hits you before the sweetness. There are so many delicious autumnal flavors and aromas going on in this wine. There are sweet notes of honey, dates, dried figs, and caramel. And lots of apple flavors—apple butter, apple cider, over-ripe apples, apple pie, and calvados. The finish is rich, long, and lingering. You’ll smell this wine in your glass the next morning. This wine is an experience to enjoy on its own. 

We have lots more on our blog about Tokaji wines!

Understanding Tokaj
Tokaji Aszú: The Story of The World’s Oldest Sweet Wine
Tokaji Essencia – Sunshine on a Spoon