Sauvignon Blanc Selection – Nádas Borműhely

Since the 1990s, and the rebirth of the Hungarian wine industry, the Etyek region has been focusing on international varieties like Sauvignon Blanc (as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir). About 30 kilometers west of Budapest, Etyek’s limestone soil and overall colder climate make it, arguably, Hungary’s best region for growing Sauvignon Blanc, of which there are around 900 hectares planted across the country. Sauvignon Blanc is just as popular in Hungary as it is worldwide. As elsewhere, it is a grape that can show several faces. Winemaker Szilárd Nádas likes to show international varieties in a more unusual light, and this wine shows the richer and more serious side of Sauvignon Blanc. More than just a summer thirst-quencher, this wine is suitable for all seasons, and it works well with many foods. The grapes—which come from vineyards planted in 1991—were fermented and aged six months, two-thirds in stainless steel and one-third in oak barrels. This Sauvignon Blanc has a grassy and herbal character. There are delightful notes of grapefruit, gooseberry, lime, and lemongrass, as well as the captivating aroma of fresh flowers after a summer rain. This is a cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc, with a richer than usual body (for this grape), and a texture that is oily, viscous, an…

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Etyek is the closest wine region to Budapest. Since it is located less than an hour’s drive west of the Buda hills, and has many festivals and events throughout the year, it is also among Hungary’s most visited wine regions. Etyek is a small region, with around 1,400 hectares of vineyards. It has protected designation of origin (PDO) status.

Historically, Etyek was known for producing sparkling wines. Hungary’s first (and largest) sparkling wine producer, Törley, started producing sparkling wines from grapes grown in the region in 1882. Since then, the area has continued to focus on this style. Etyek’s limestone soil and overall colder climate make it, arguably, Hungary’s best region to grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. These are the most important types of wine produced in the area, both as still wines and sparkling wines. Even the Sauvignon Blanc is used to produce Asti-like sparklers.

Etyek’s best features were not always considered a strength. During the time where full-bodied red wines were the most popular style, the southern-Hungarian red wine producers made fun of Etyek’s producers for not being able to produce this popular style and for only being capable of producing ‘base-wine’ for sparklers. Ironically, elegance and bubbles are once again very popular, and now even the southern-Hungarian producers are trying to make bubbly wines. Etyek is living a renaissance. From Etyek’s wines you can expect fresh acidity, chalky minerality (due to the limestone soil), restrained fruit, and an overall cold-climate-wine-feeling. Traditional method sparkling wines are especially worth seeking out, as well as spicy Pinot Noirs and aromatic whites.

Winemaker Szilárd Nádas and his wife, Veronika Rajnai, both horticultural engineers, are the team behind Nádas Borműhely (“Wine Workshop”). They both worked in Bordeaux, Yarra Valley, and Okanagan Valley, before starting their own winery. In 2011 they bought a crumbling 19th-century press house on Etyek’s Öreghegy (“Old Hill”), and they now have six hectares of vineyards—mainly the white varieties typical to Etyek, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris), Királyleányka, and Zöldveltelíni (Grüner Veltliner), as well as some PInot Noir. With their newest plantation (finished in 2019), they also have some rarities, such as Viktória Gyöngye (Pearl of Victoria), Pinot Meunier, and Chenin Blanc. They produce up to 14,000 bottles annually, and receive many visitors. They like to experiment with local varieties, while also showing their international grape varieties in a different light, unique to the Etyek region.

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