Nádas Borműhely, Pearl of V, Brut Nature Sparkling Wine, 2020

Nádas Borműhely, Etyek-Buda Region

Fans of obscure grape varieties should not hesitate to look to Hungary, which is an endless source of unfamiliar wines made from grapes almost forgotten to history. This is one such rarity—a traditional-method sparkling wine made from 100 percent Viktória Gyöngye (a grape whose name translates as “Pearl of Viktória”). Viktória Gyöngye is only planted on 164 hectares in all of Hungary, and very few commercially available wines are made from this variety (this is the only single varietal Viktória Gyöngye sparkling wine). In addition to Etyek, where this wine is from, there is a bit grown in the Kunság and Eger wine regions. It is not even mentioned in Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, a tome which lists almost 1,400 grape varieties. Viktória Gyöngye is a Hungarian grape variety, created in 1995 by Pál Kozma (a viticulturist who created several new hybrids). It’s a crossing between two obscure varieties: Seyve-Villard 12375 and Csaba Gyöngye, and is a high-yielding variety with large clusters. It is resistant to fungal diseases, not prone to rot, and is an excellent grape for sparkling wine production. Since Nádas has just one hectare of Viktória Gyöngye, it all goes for sparkling wine. Historically, Etyek has long been known for producing sparkling wines, and the region is taking these wines to the next level these days, as this delicious wine demonstrates. With bubbles that are small, delicate, and lively, this wine delivers fresh citrus, apple, and pear fruitiness, with a touch of yeastiness, and a mineral finish. The base wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel, then aged on its lees, before being bottled with zero dosage (brut nature), and then two more years of bottle aging. Drink this wine at any time—on its own, or paired with grilled fish, fresh salads, salty snacks, or seafood.

Read About The Etyek-Buda Region

Nádas Borműhely 

Winemaker Szilárd Nádas and his wife, Veronika Rajnai, both horticultural engineers, are the team behind Nádas Borműhely (“Wine Workshop”). They both worked in Bordeaux, Yarra Valley, and Okanagan Valley, before starting their own winery. In 2011 they bought a crumbling 19th-century press house on Etyek’s Öreghegy (“Old Hill”), and they now have six hectares of vineyards—mainly the white varieties typical to Etyek, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris), Királyleányka, and Zöldveltelíni (Grüner Veltliner), as well as some PInot Noir. With their newest plantation (finished in 2019), they also have some rarities, such as Viktória Gyöngye (Pearl of Victoria), Pinot Meunier, and Chenin Blanc. They produce up to 14,000 bottles annually, and receive many visitors. They like to experiment with local varieties, while also showing their international grape varieties in a different light, unique to the Etyek region.