Sebestyén, Indigo (Zweigelt), 2020

Sebestyén Winery, Szekszárd Region

Zweigelt is a crossing of the Kékfrankos grape—called Blaufrankisch in Austria—and the St. Laurent grape. It is best known in Austria, where it was developed in 1922 in the Klosterneuburg Viticultural Institute near Vienna. In Hungary, the variety was first planted in the Sopron region, just across the Austrian border. Then it was brought to several other regions, including Eger, Mátra, and Szekszárd. Indigo is a 100 percent Zweigelt wine, and everything about it comes as a surprise. First the color: it’s a beautiful and intense inky purple wine with hints of blue. Then the nose: it has blueberry, bubblegum, cherry candy, and Szechuan pepper. The surprises continue on the palate: it has juicy blackberries, black pepper, and cherry candy flavors, with very gentle tannins, and just enough acidity. This wine (12.5 percent alcohol) comes from 10 year-old Zweigelt vines in the Szentgál vineyard. There was cluster selection in the vineyard, then it was tank-fermented, and aged for six months. This wine is a light face of the Austrian-born Zweigelt variety, and is dangerously easy to drink. It’s a fruit bomb, which is best enjoyed slightly chilled as an aperitif, or next to charcuterie and cheeses. A good movie also makes a fine companion for this wine.