Nánai Kékfrankos – Sebestyén

This pure Kékfrankos comes from the Nánai vineyard, located on a plateau south of the town of Szekszárd. The vineyard, planted 15 years ago, is less than an acre. Its colder, windier climate means that it produces elegant wines with a lower alcohol content and crisp acidity. Csilla Sebestyén joined her brother, Csaba, in the family winery after working for several years as a sommelier in a two-Michelin-star restaurant in Dublin. Csilla brought an international viewpoint to the winery, shifting its focus from international varieties to local ones. “This is my sister’s wine,” explained Csaba. “She came up with the idea for this wine, and she does the final barrel selection.” Csilla has also confessed that of all their wines, this is her favorite. It is aged in used 500 liter Hungarian and French barrels for 19 months. No new oak barrels are used, as to not mask the great potential of the Kékfrankos variety behind oak. The nose explodes with the classic Kékfrankos aromas of currants, red plums, black pepper, and sour cherry. There is also an elegant and well-integrated touch of oaky aromas, like leather, tobacco, and sweet spices. The wine has a juicy acidity with gentle tannins, and a very long finish. Csilla calls this wine the “real princess” of the winery. An…

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The southern Szekszárd region excels in producing some of Hungary’s most elegant and spicy red wines. The region is one of the strongholds of Kékfrankos and Kadarka, and the Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon) are also important. Szekszárd’s wines are generally full bodied yet elegant, with plenty of lively acidity. Along with Eger, it is also the only place in the country that may use the name Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) to describe its full-bodied red blends. It is said to have coined this name before its rival in the north.
The region stretches over the Szekszárd Hills and the northeastern fringes of the Geresdi Hills. It lies between the Mecsek Hills to the west and the Danube and its floodplain to the east. It is characterized by rolling hills, and is crisscrossed by erosional valleys, thus creating a range of distinct microclimates. There are 2,187 hectares of planted vineyards, and the region’s soil is characterized by a thick layer of loess, generally a couple of meters’ thick, but which can reach up to an incredible 30 meters in some places. The areas with terra rossa—iron-rich, red clay subsoil—are the best vineyards for red wine. Loess soils and areas with high loess walls are easily eroded, and so they are often terraced.
Viticulture in the region goes back to Roman times.

The region flourished under the Habsburgs, with many famous cellars, the abbey cellar system, and press houses. Vineyards grew a wide range of varieties. Kadarka took over as the leading variety in the 19th century and is said to have inspired some of Franz Liszt’s music. The variety was celebrated by poet János Garay, who is credited with dubbing the deeply colored local red wine ‘Bikavér’ in a poem.
Szekszárdi Bikavér is a spicy Kékfrankos-led blend, which also includes a touch of Kadarka and up to 40 percent Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. It must contain at least four varieties and be aged in oak for at least one year. It is fruity yet elegant, with silky tannins and a juicy full body. The premium version requires a year of further aging in oak and a further 12 months in bottle. These are harmonious, full-bodied wines with great complexity and freshness.
Kadarka yields a light, gently aromatic, cherry-flavored, spicy wine with a beautiful ruby color, while Szekszárdi Kékfrankos demonstrates a rich, fruity style with plenty of sour cherry, spice and refreshing acidity. Many wineries also boast powerful, and often somewhat alcoholic, Bordeaux blends, Cabernet Francs, Cabernet Sauvignons, and Merlots among their top wines.  The blends often contain a splash of Kékfrankos to add a touch of Szekszárd character.
In 2014 winemakers in Szekszárd introduced a special bottle that may only be used for premium wines, which have passed a tasting panel, in these three flagship styles. The Szekszárd winemakers are a great example of a Hungarian wine region collaborating to develop a common style and vision for the future.

The Sebestyén Winery is a 30-acre family estate run by siblings, Csaba and Csilla Sebestyén. Csaba founded the family winery while Csilla was in Dublin working as a sommelier in a two-star Michelin restaurant. After a few years she returned to Hungary and joined her brother in the family winery. Her international experience helped the winery shift its focus from making wines with international varieties, rather to local varieties. They focus on the Kékfrankos variety, which is the backbone of most of their blends—including the famous Bikavér (Bull’s blood) wines from the Szekszárd region.

Their goal is to produce (mostly) single-vineyard, elegant wines, which have a balanced oak influence and a strong varietal expression. This is a very Burgundian philosophy. Their vineyard land is divided among five different premium locations in the region: Iván-Völgy, Görögszó, Nána, Szentgál, and Porkoláb-Völgy.

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