Szászi, Kéknyelű, 2021

Szászi Winery, Badacsony Region

The Kéknyelű variety is the trademark grape of Badacsony, a hilly volcanic region on the northern side of Lake Balaton. Just 46 hectares (113 acres) are planted in Hungary, almost exclusively in Badacsony. Once the darling of Badacsony, Kéknyelű was known as the ’gentleman’s grape’ since it is late-ripening and low-yielding. It requires lots of care in the vineyard, and is risky because it is only harvested in mid-October or even November. Furthermore, it only has female flowers so it needs another variety (typically Budai Zöld) planted nearby, since it relies on the wind for pollination. The locals couldn’t rely on such a fickle grape for their livelihoods, but they thought that gentleman could afford to cultivate it! Kéknyelű really fell from grace during Communism because it didn’t suit the need for mass production. But in recent years the grape has been experiencing a small revival thanks to Badacsony winemakers like Endre Szászi, who are devoted to this variety because they appreciate it as an emblematic regional specialty. Kéknyelű’s high acidity, relative neutrality, and serious extract make it a good translator of terroir, and it feels comfortable in the region’s volcanic soil. Like all of Szászi’s wines, this one is organic. It’s a lean wine, with a crisp acidity, a pale color, and a subdued nose. Fermentation was spontaneous, and it aged for three months in oak barrels. Lemon, floral, and mineral characters are dominant, complemented by herbal and pepper notes. The oak aging adds some hazelnut aromas. Kéknyelű benefits from several years of bottle aging. This wine goes wonderfully with grilled or sauteed fish, simply prepared with lemon and olive oil. It’s also a great match for goat cheese or other young creamy cheeses. If you like fresh, crisp, and juicy white wines—like Chenin Blanc and Muscadet—you’ll love Kéknyelű!

Read About The Badacsony Region | Read About Kéknyelű