Királyleányka – Nádas Borműhely

The Királyleányka grape originated in the Transylvania region of Romania, most probably as a natural crossing (meaning without human intervention) of the Kövérszőlő and Leányka grape varieties. It was officially recognized as a Hungarian grape in 1973. Hungarian wine-lovers appreciate it as a light wine, with a floral and fruity character, a crisp acidity, and a delicately perfumed aroma. Királyleányka is most often associated with the Eger wine region, where it is one of the most planted white grapes (and also a component of the Egri Csillag blend). Of the approximately 900 producing hectares of Királyleányka, there are about 60 hectares planted in Etyek. Winemaker Szilárd Nádas sources his Királyleányka grapes from his 38-year-old vines on the Etyek wine region’s most revered slope, Öreg-hegy. This 100 percent Királyelányka was fermented in steel tanks, so as to preserve all of the wonderful aromatic qualities of this grape. But this is a somewhat atypical Királyleányka, in that the color is deeper and the usual intense elderflower perfuminess on the nose is replaced by chamomile flowers, candied fruit, watermelon Jolly Rancher, lemon curd, and gummy bear aromas. There is a lot packed in this bottle. The rich nose is followed by a lush and fairly full-body…

$24.90

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Etyek is the closest wine region to Budapest. Since it is located less than an hour’s drive west of the Buda hills, and has many festivals and events throughout the year, it is also among Hungary’s most visited wine regions. Etyek is a small region, with around 1,400 hectares of vineyards. It has protected designation of origin (PDO) status.

Historically, Etyek was known for producing sparkling wines. Hungary’s first (and largest) sparkling wine producer, Törley, started producing sparkling wines from grapes grown in the region in 1882. Since then, the area has continued to focus on this style. Etyek’s limestone soil and overall colder climate make it, arguably, Hungary’s best region to grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. These are the most important types of wine produced in the area, both as still wines and sparkling wines. Even the Sauvignon Blanc is used to produce Asti-like sparklers.

Etyek’s best features were not always considered a strength. During the time where full-bodied red wines were the most popular style, the southern-Hungarian red wine producers made fun of Etyek’s producers for not being able to produce this popular style and for only being capable of producing ‘base-wine’ for sparklers. Ironically, elegance and bubbles are once again very popular, and now even the southern-Hungarian producers are trying to make bubbly wines. Etyek is living a renaissance. From Etyek’s wines you can expect fresh acidity, chalky minerality (due to the limestone soil), restrained fruit, and an overall cold-climate-wine-feeling. Traditional method sparkling wines are especially worth seeking out, as well as spicy Pinot Noirs and aromatic whites.

Winemaker Szilárd Nádas and his wife, Veronika Rajnai, both horticultural engineers, are the team behind Nádas Borműhely (“Wine Workshop”). They both worked in Bordeaux, Yarra Valley, and Okanagan Valley, before starting their own winery. In 2011 they bought a crumbling 19th-century press house on Etyek’s Öreghegy (“Old Hill”), and they now have six hectares of vineyards—mainly the white varieties typical to Etyek, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris), Királyleányka, and Zöldveltelíni (Grüner Veltliner), as well as some PInot Noir. With their newest plantation (finished in 2019), they also have some rarities, such as Viktória Gyöngye (Pearl of Victoria), Pinot Meunier, and Chenin Blanc. They produce up to 14,000 bottles annually, and receive many visitors. They like to experiment with local varieties, while also showing their international grape varieties in a different light, unique to the Etyek region.

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