“Vagy Mi?” Szürkebarát – Nádas Borműhely

Pinot Gris is an international variety, which in Hungary goes by a decidedly Hungarian name: Szürkebarát (which translates as “grey monk” in English). Legend says that Cistercian monks brought the grape to Hungary in the 14th century, planted them in Badacsony (north of Lake Balaton), and the grape therefore got its name from the monks’ clothing. In Hungary, Szürkebarát is mostly grown in the Badacsony and Mátra regions, but this wine shows how good it can also be in Etyek. Made from 100 percent Pinot Gris, grown on 40 year-old vines, the wine has a beautiful color—somewhere between pink and light red, amber and orange. Perhaps the color of an aged brandy. The color is due both to the Pinot Gris grape itself, and the winemaking method. ​​Pinot Gris is a color mutation of the Pinot Noir grape, and its berries can look more like red grapes than white ones, ranging in color from pink to red. And this wine is a so-called orange wine, which means it is a white wine made in the manner of a red. The grapes were fermented on their skins in an open vat (adding color to the wine), with the cap punched down regularly until the end of fermentation. (Typically, when making a white wine, the skins are separated from the juice right after pressing). The wine was then aged for o…

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Etyek is the closest wine region to Budapest. Since it is located less than an hour’s drive west of the Buda hills, and has many festivals and events throughout the year, it is also among Hungary’s most visited wine regions. Etyek is a small region, with around 1,400 hectares of vineyards. It has protected designation of origin (PDO) status.

Historically, Etyek was known for producing sparkling wines. Hungary’s first (and largest) sparkling wine producer, Törley, started producing sparkling wines from grapes grown in the region in 1882. Since then, the area has continued to focus on this style. Etyek’s limestone soil and overall colder climate make it, arguably, Hungary’s best region to grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. These are the most important types of wine produced in the area, both as still wines and sparkling wines. Even the Sauvignon Blanc is used to produce Asti-like sparklers.

Etyek’s best features were not always considered a strength. During the time where full-bodied red wines were the most popular style, the southern-Hungarian red wine producers made fun of Etyek’s producers for not being able to produce this popular style and for only being capable of producing ‘base-wine’ for sparklers. Ironically, elegance and bubbles are once again very popular, and now even the southern-Hungarian producers are trying to make bubbly wines. Etyek is living a renaissance. From Etyek’s wines you can expect fresh acidity, chalky minerality (due to the limestone soil), restrained fruit, and an overall cold-climate-wine-feeling. Traditional method sparkling wines are especially worth seeking out, as well as spicy Pinot Noirs and aromatic whites.

Winemaker Szilárd Nádas and his wife, Veronika Rajnai, both horticultural engineers, are the team behind Nádas Borműhely (“Wine Workshop”). They both worked in Bordeaux, Yarra Valley, and Okanagan Valley, before starting their own winery. In 2011 they bought a crumbling 19th-century press house on Etyek’s Öreghegy (“Old Hill”), and they now have six hectares of vineyards—mainly the white varieties typical to Etyek, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris), Királyleányka, and Zöldveltelíni (Grüner Veltliner), as well as some PInot Noir. With their newest plantation (finished in 2019), they also have some rarities, such as Viktória Gyöngye (Pearl of Victoria), Pinot Meunier, and Chenin Blanc. They produce up to 14,000 bottles annually, and receive many visitors. They like to experiment with local varieties, while also showing their international grape varieties in a different light, unique to the Etyek region.

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1 review for “Vagy Mi?” Szürkebarát – Nádas Borműhely

  1. Alexandra Parekh (verified owner)

    Well described, interesting flavor profile. Little less acidic than expected, but over all was happy with choice. Beautifully packaged.

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